An otherwise unremarkable town in Surat Thani may have been the capital of the Srivijaya Empire, whose Javanese rulers controlled a great expanse of Southeast Asia until seven centuries ago.
The splendor of the Srivijaya Empire can be seen at Chaiya's Wat Phra Mahathat.
For nearly 600 years between the seventh and 13th centuries A.D., the Srivijaya Empire flourished throughout the southern regions of Southeast Asia. Ruled by the Sailendra dynasty from central Java, this kingdom controlled much of Java, the island of Sumatra and the entire Malay peninsula.
By the end of the eighth century A.D., Srivijaya had extended its power into southern Thailand and up the Isthmus of Kra - an expansion necessitated by avoiding the treacherous and pirate-riddled Straits of Malacca, thus ensuring the safety of trade routes between India and China.
Steeped in mystery and legend since its decline toward the end of the 13th century, the exact location of the Srivijaya capital has been a subject of debate among historians.
The 1,200-year-old Borom That Chaiya chedi is regarded as the most important Srivijayan structure in Thailand.
Many believe it was situated near the town of Palembang in southern Sumatra. However, few antiquities were discovered at Palembang whereas a vast number have surfaced around Surat Thani in southern Thailand, most of which are now housed in the National Museums of Bangkok and Nakhon Si Thammarat.
These finds, in particular a stone inscription dated 775 A.D. which records the construction of Mahayana Buddhist monuments by the kings of Srivijaya, have led some scholars to surmise that the capital may well have been at Chaiya (this name is widely accepted as being a contraction of the Thai pronunciation for Srivijaya), a small town 54 kilometres north of Surat Thani town.
With several important historical sites scattered across the surrounding district, Chaiya was undoubtedly the former regional and cultural centre of this 12,800-square-kilometre province.
Unfortunately, the town today is otherwise unremarkable. Apart from a hotel and a guesthouse, both extremely utilitarian, it lacks facilities for tourists. As a result, visitors are recommended to tackle Chaiya as a day trip from Surat Thani. A traveller from Bangkok to Surat city could also break the journey at Chaiya and inspect its prime sites.
Tourists with private vehicles have an advantage and can easily cover all the major temples in a day, with perhaps a lunchtime trip to a beachside restaurant thrown in for good measure. Nevertheless, Chaiya offers the standard selection of local transport - buses, songthaews and motorcycle taxis - so others should experience no difficulties organising a temple-hopping tour. In the cloister surrounding the Borom That Chaiya chedi are 183 Srivijaya Buddha images.
Approximately two kilometres west of the town, on the main Chaiya road running off Highway 41, lies the area's most eminent attraction, Wat Phra Borom Mahathat Chaiya Rajaworaviharn, a rather lengthy title generally shortened to Wat Phra Mahathat. Constructed in 757 A.D., this royal temple is considered the finest, and most intact Srivijayan structure in Thailand.
Three adjacent entrances, surmounted by carved lintels, lead into a courtyard containing the temple's highlight, the elaborate 1,200-year-old, 24-metre-high Borom That Chaiya chedi.
Resembling some Javanese candi (a sepulchral Hindu monument common in Java), this grand pagoda was initially restored in 1901 during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and is believed to contain Buddha relics. It stands on a square base surrounded by a cloister enshrining 183 various sizes and styles (mostly seated, some standing) of Srivijaya Buddha images. Several are still undergoing restoration.
A museum attached to the temple exhibits artifacts and other archaeological finds from the district. Of particular interest are the aging monochrome photographs depicting the various stages leading up to the full restoration of both the temple and its magnificent chedi.
Admission is five baht for Thai citizens and 10 baht for foreigners - a common and clearly racist practice at most Thai museums and one that should be discontinued. (Can you imagine the uproar that would occur if it was discovered that an Australian museum was charging Asian tourists double the usual admission?)
Positioned throughout the vicinity surrounding Wat Phra Mahathat are four other, equally important if less impressive temples dating from the same period - Wat Wiang, Wat Lung, Wat Nop and Wat Kaew. The latter is especially noteworthy for its ruined Srivijaya stupa, which is similar to the Cham structures of the ninth century, but also shows a central Javanese influence.
A mural of Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, the founder of Chaiya's Wat Suanmoke.
With so much emphasis on the past, it's interesting to note that Chaiya's best-known wat is far from ancient and has only been in existence for a little more than half a century. Founded in May 1932 by Phra Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, Wat Suan Mokkhapalaram (The Garden of Liberation), was originally situated at nearby Ban Phumriang, but relocated in 1959 to a 150-acre rural site at the foot of Khao Phutta Thong, six kilometres south of Chaiya, just off Highway 41.
Widely known by its contracted name, Wat Suanmoke, this forest wat is totally devoid of any of the elaborate edifices and formal ceremonies usually associated with Thai temples. Instead, the focus is on harmony with nature and a back-to-grassroots approach to Buddhism that closely follows the basic regimen of the earliest disciples.
Offering a combination of outdoor facilities and activities, physical labour, Vipassana (Insight) and Samatha (Tranquil) meditation, Wat Suanmoke draws monks, lay meditators, searchers for enlightenment, and the curious, from numerous countries. Ten-day meditation courses are held at the beginning of every month. A small fee of 900 baht covers dormitory accommodation (individual huts for women), two vegetarian meals a day plus instruction.
Casual visitors regularly drop by to experience the serenity of the grounds, as well as browsing around the sculpture workshops, library and various other buildings. A unique attraction is the spiritual theatre, which has been decorated over the years with a melange of Thai, Egyptian, Indian, Tibetan, Chinese, Japanese and European bas-reliefs and murals. This building was best described by Phra Buddhadasa Bhikkhu himself when he referred to it as "a pictorial interpretation of Dharma".
Six kilometres east of Chaiya is the village of Ban Phumriang, a handicraft centre renowned locally for its unique gold and silver brocade silk cloth, woven in five original patterns on roadside looms. There are also a handful of small workshops producing gold and silver jewellery. Yet another local craft is jute headwear, plaited from palm and palmyra leaves.
As Ban Phumriang is essentially a Muslim village, mosques predominate. However, there are a few old Buddhist temples worth inspecting. Prominent among these is What Samuhanimit, which has a crumbling stone pedestal - the sole remaining structure form the original viharn - plus some small chedi.
Travelling east form the village, a road crosses the Klong Yai Phumriang bridge onto Laem Po, then continues on up to Laem Sui at Ao Bandon. Laem Po has a few typical southern beach restaurants, with tables and deckchairs scattered around under trees and umbrellas. This is a pleasant and peaceful spot to relax with a snack and a few beers after a tough day around the temples.
Better still is the beach at Tha Chana, 27 kilometres to the north of Chaiya. Several restaurants, with seaside seating placed among the coconut trees, line a clean and scenic stretch of coastline facing the Gulf of Thailand.
Dotting the horizon are a handful of islets belonging to the Angthong group; a 40-island archipelago that became Surat Thani's first marine national park in 1980. Unfortunately, the beach lacks a resort, though if you care to stay a night or two, there is one budget hotel near the central market. However, the town has little to offer other than its beach, so most tourists elect to stay in Surat and include Tha Chana with a Chaiya visit.
Travel tips
The South's largest province, Surat Thani is situated approximately midway down the southern peninsula, 685 kilometres from Bangkok. To the east of the province lies the Gulf of Thailand with its well-known islands of Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and the Ang Thong group, all part of Surat Thani.
Inland, Surat borders five other provinces, and can be reached easily by taxi, bus or minibus from any of these surrounding provincial capitals: Chumphon and Rayong to the north, Phang-nga to the west, Krabi and Nakhon Si Thammarat to the south.
One of the South's major hubs, Surat Thani city is linked to Bangkok by air, rail, and road. Thai Airways International operates two flights a day from Bangkok to Surat Thani. Flight time is one hour and 15 minutes, and the one-way fare is 1,850 baht.
From Surat city there are frequent rail, bus, minibus, and taxi departures for Chaiya, 54 kilometres to the north.
Numerous trains, coaches and buses depart Bangkok daily for Surat Thani. All pass through Chaiya.
An elegant boutique hotel sets the tone for visitors seeking more sophisticated pursuits on the popular resort island
Just as some of Phuket's heavy-rock pubs forewarn patrons, "If the music's too loud, you're too old", busy Patong Beach could issue a similar caution: If there's a tad too much razzmatazz for your linking, perhaps you've lost some steam.
It appears that a good number of tourists fall into this category. A common complaint these days is that Patong is too developed, too commercialised, and has too many bars.
Of course, when directed at Phuket as a whole, criticism of this nature is largely unfair. Patong is merely one selection from the island's vast menu. And the solution is simple: if you prefer less frenetic surroundings, try one of the quieter beaches.
I did just that on a recent visit, stretching out with a beer and a good book on the peaceful sands at the foot of The Boathouse Inn on Kata Beach.
Arguably Phuket's most picturesque bay, Kata lies on the southwest coast, about midway between Ao Patong and the southernmost point at Laem Promthep. There's some mighty pretty scenery, so it's well worth renting a vehicle for a day or two to explore.
The coast road meanders around cliffs, through rubber plantations, orchards and lush jungle growth, with occasional clearings exposing dramatic sweeps of the sea, coves and beaches below.
The finest panorama, however, is from the viewpoint at the far south of Kata. Here the deep blue of the Andaman graduates through several hues into frothy-white waves rolling onto the beaches of Kata Noi and Yai, Karon, Karon Noi and Freedom Beach near the end of the headland that separates Karon from Patong.
But it is to Kata that the eye is continuously drawn: to the verdant landscape fringing the beach, to the symmetry of bay and to its centrepiece, the islet of Ko Pu.
With scenery of this calibre, together with more subdued nocturnal offerings, it's not surprising that Kata has clicked with families and others whose recreational pursuits are more cosmopolitan than Phuket generally offers.
The Boathouse Inn and Restaurant is a fine example of a luxury resort that not only reflects this ambience but is constantly contributing to and refining it.
Focusing on personalised service to a small-volume clientele (only 33 rooms and three suites), this boutique hotel on the southern end of Kata Beach extends such a cordial welcome to guests that - aside from having to settle your bill on departing - it's rather like staying a while with wealthy friends.
This analogy mirrors the hotel's prime objective and is clearly evident in the little touches: staff are warm and attentive, managers will join you for a drink and end up becoming pals, postcards are written and mailed for you, and you can even roll back over-refreshed to your room at 2 a.m. and find flowers on your pillow.
The big touches don't hurt either. Primarily a restaurant with a hotel attached, The Boathouse has long been acknowledged for some of Phuket's finest Thai and continental cuisine. Add to this what Wine Spectator magazine called "one of the most outstanding wine lists in the world", and it's little wonder what one travel writer dubbed The Boathouse "one of the great little hotels of the world".
My own knowledge of wine matters was exiguous to say the least prior to visiting The Boathouse cellars. Among the beau monde of outback Western Australia, where I honed my social graces, one never removes the bottle from its paper bag. As for drinking wine from a glass, this is both pretentious and unnecessary as it only leads to extra work at washing-up time.
Therefore, I found it extremely edifying when restaurant manager Richard Mehr and Phuket radio personality Mark Rome led me on an inspection of the 3,500 bottles contained in the hotel's unique above-ground cellar, complete with a crash course in discerning the subtleties of some of the 225 varieties.
Commencing with Bordeaux, my hosts waved glass after glass under my nose, urging me to detect bouquets of cherry, blackberry, toasted oak, mint, herb layered with minerals, or rich and elegant tobacco. (Tobacco may well be the reason my philistine nose failed to distinguish any significant differences; I had just finished a cheap Dutch cigar.)
By the time we reached the Sauternes, Richard beamed with pride as he displayed the Chateau Raymond Lafon 1987/91, exclusive to The Boathouse cellars, having been hand-carried there directly from the chateau by the owner, Jean Pierre Meslier.
Cultural activities for guests centre on culinary workshops conducted by award-winning chef Tummanoon Punchun, along with the Andaman chapter of the Chao Phraya River Club's regular wine-tasting evenings, performances of chamber music, art exhibitions and literary meetings.
Popular with guests and resident expats alike, the literary society hosts readings by aspiring local writers, as well as frequent appearances by professional guest authors. Among the prominent authors to entertain with excerpts from their work are William Warren, the late Tristan Jones, Christopher Moore, Pira Sudham, S.P. Somtow, William Page, James Eckardt, Colin Piprell and . . . myself, when I recently introduced my new collection of travel stories, Island-Hopping Through the Andaman.
As for the art gallery, major exhibiting artists have included Philip Slagter, Jan Montijn, Didier Bayle, Jean Pierre Guiriec, and Dutch artist Leo Musch. The latter regularly returns to conduct daily workshops in painting and drawing.
However, it is primarily the magnificent Andaman with its plethora of idyllic isles that draws one to Kata and Phuket's other beaches in the first place. The roster of day trips includes Coral Island, Raja Island, Ko Kai, Ko Yai and Phang-nga Bay. One can charter the Andaman Angler for deep-sea fishing, or explore sea-caves with the Sea Explorer canoe excursions. These and other one-day tours are available through The Boathouse reception, or you can make your own arrangements.
Tucked away on Kata's southern corner, the Kata Beach Dive Shop (284-022) specialises in local boat dives tailored for married tourists hesitant about abandoning their families for an entire day. Priced at 800 baht all-inclusive, these dives last for approximately two hours and can be taken at any of eight nearby sites, one of the most convenient being the coral reefs around Ko Pu.
There are also introductory courses for 1,500 baht, two-dive daytrips for 1,900 baht, plus advanced or rescue courses starting around 6,000 baht. For travellers on restricted budgets there's a special low-season package, with a full PADI open-water course, including five nights' bungalow accommodation, for 6,900 baht.
If, on the other hand, you've had your fill of sea and sand, you may prefer to explore some of the countryside on an elephant. The Kata Elephant Camp is next to the coast road just before the Viewpoint, and for 400 baht (children half-price) one of several Isan jumbos will take you for a trek along the dense and scenic jungle trails of the interior.
While most of the resorts lining the bay fit into the luxury category, those on a tight budget can find some very reasonable alternatives.
Pop Cottage has clean, comfortable rooms ranging from 400 baht with fans to 550 baht with air-conditioning. It's not seaside but it's only a three-minute-walk to the beach. Shady House and Restaurant, next to Kata Beach Dive Shop, has AC rooms for 500 baht, or fan rooms for 300. I thought Shady's bungalows were less appealing than Pop's; however, Shady is right on the beach with a seafood restaurant attached.
For sheer value, the Peace Hill Hotel at Kata Centre wins hands-down with its stylish rooms, complete with AC and TV, set in a garden with a swimming pool, for 450 baht.
Kata Centre has dozens of restaurants, pubs, bars and stores huddled in a pleasant village-like setting. Both the Blue Fin and the British-style Anchor Bar have earned kudos for excellent, reasonably priced meals.
The Good Earth bookstore has an admirable selection of second-hand books in several languages, along with homemade cakes, wine, beer, freshly brewed coffee, and imported teas (Nepalese, Burmese, Japanese, Sumatran). As a result the Good Earth has developed into a popular rendezvous, with all sorts of interesting characters dropping in to chat with the affable owner.
Khao Nom Nang, Tha Kradan
Khao Nom Nang (เขานมนาง), "female breast mountain", is a 752 m high mountain in the Tenasserim Hills in Kanchanaburi Province, Thailand.
Khao Nom Nang is part of the extensive
Khao Yai National Park, which covers parts of four provinces: Nakhon
Ratchasima, Saraburi, Nakhon Nayok and Prachin Buri.
At least 67 species of fauna, 300 bird species and 2,500 varieties of
plants and flowers can be found in the park's 2,168 square kilometres.
Winter temperatures can drop as low as 10 degrees Celsius, while in
summer it is a comfortable 28. Twelve trekking routes cover a total of
40 kilometres.
Getting There: The park is a three-hour drive from Bangkok on
Phaholyothin Highway via Rangsit and Pratunam Pra-in. Turn right onto
the Mitraphap Highway and proceed to Muak Lek. Take another right before
Pak Chong. Alternatively, take Highway 305 at Rangsit toward Nakhon
Nayok and then Highway 33. Before reaching Prachin Buri, turn left at
the Naresuan intersection to the park.
Regular buses leave Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal for Pak Chong, from
where local buses travel to the park area. Train service to Pak Chong
is also available from Hualamphong station (223-0341), and from
Ayutthaya.
For information on camping and park accommodation, contact the Forestry Department's National Park Division at 579-1154.
Several tour groups offer Khao Yai treks: Nature Line (719-0952);
Nature Trail (933-0745-6); Friends of Nature (642-4426); Wildlife Fund
Thailand (521-3435, 552-2111, 552-2790).
TREKKING TIPS
Trekkers will get much more from a weekend trip if they take time to
find some information on what they will be seeing - and if they
remember a few basic guidelines:
Pick a comfortable pair of sneakers that can withstand a long, rugged walk, both in mountainous terrain and in the water.
Be sure to wear long pants and a long-sleeved shirt to protect against
sharp grass blades and thorns. It is best to wear a cap as well.
Follow the trail set out by forest officials or guides.
Pack light, bringing only necessities, one of which includes a bottle of water.
A sleeping bag is very useful but always keep it dry. Take along a few
plastic bags. A sweater is welcome at high altitudes at night.
While camping, keep food well away from where you are sleeping, in order to keep insects from creeping in.
The rainy season reveals nature in all its finery during a trek and a night of camping in the meadow atop Khao Nom Nang
Braving the traffic in the city and braving the wilderness can be equally exhausting, but what you lose and what you gain are poles apart.
Those who are new to trekking may have no idea where Khao Nom Nang is, but veteran hikers who have spent time exploring Khao Yai National Park will know the way. Just head for Muak Lek District and you're on the way to this scenic mountain.
Arriving at the entrance to the forest, we repack our gear at the compound of a wooden house erected nearby. The house, owned by a well-to-do family, may seem isolated from the outside world - until one notices the satellite dish by its side.
We take along only the overnight necessities in order to make our packs as light as possible. Our goal is the top of Khao Nom Nang, at 1,075 metres, where we will camp overnight.
The last hour before dusk will involve an uphill slog through a head-high meadow of weeds and thick foliage of wild plants.
After only a few moments of climbing our backs and faces are damp with sweat. Navigating the slopes is a great way to burn calories for those intent on staying lean. We take numerous short breaks to dry the sweat and cool off by a brook where we fill an empty bottle.
Smoke hovers above a fireplace where water is boiled for tea and coffee. A young forest guide leans against a rock and puffs a cigarette. At this stage, cooking would be too much of a chore; we eat the lunches we had packed in the city. All refuse is thrown into the fire, so there will be no litter on the trail and less to carry with us.
At this time of the year, the trails in the forest are soggy with rainfall and all the trees are at their most abundant, but it is not too steamy.
Following a less-beaten trail encourages concentration, on your own steps and on keeping pace with companions ahead.
From time to time, we feel as if we are playing a kind of snakes-and-ladders board game. We meet with natural obstacles: running into a tree that shelters a host of wasps; slipping along a steep rock; risking an encounter with blood-sucking leeches. Encounters with large animals are rare as few are left in this area.
Anyone firmly attached to a city life will feel the power of nature by sheltering in the embrace of forest and mountains. A dirt floor is a table, a stream supplies water, fireplaces give warmth, and the moon and stars are the only actors in the sky.
Under the starry sky in the dark, weedy meadow atop Khao Nom Nang, we pass a pleasant evening, though the ever-strong wind buzzes and flings the canvas flaps of the tents noisily. The waist-high weeds rustle incessantly. We awake near midnight when the canvas buckles violently in a downpour.
Sleeping bags and gear are packed into plastic bags. The occupants of the larger tent call out to the four of us in two smaller tents, asking if we will be able to ride out the storm. Eventually everybody ends up huddling together in the larger tent for two hours, with water trickling through from every direction.
The early morning is bright after the rainfall; mist drifts away quickly, and it is windy and cold. We slip out of the damp tent and turn quickly to a fireplace for warmth and morning warm-ups: coffee and bread. We pack and resume our journey downhill.
Having climbed up one way, we opt for a different route back. The distance is longer but trip is faster, being downhill, and the scenery no less diverse.
We have time to divert to the five-tiered Chang Mob waterfall, which is in full swell after the heavy rain of the previous night.
As we crisscross the stream we can feel the intense humidity before we reach the rustling waters' origin. The trekking leader shows us a fresh hoofmark left by a gaur as we approach the waterfall.
Taking a dip to cool off, we are ready to brave the wilderness again. Our descent takes the whole morning.
Emerging in early afternoon from the fringe of the forest, we come across a newly-built wooden house, isolated in the mountains' embrace. "Come in and drink some cool water," the generous host calls out.
After taking a few sips of scented iced water, served in a traditional Thai-style basin, we look back toward the mountaintop where we had spent the night.
Khao Nom Nang remains a mystery to the hospitable family in the house, though; they still have never been up there.
An otherwise unremarkable town in Surat Thani may have been the capital of the Srivijaya Empire, whose Javanese rulers controlled a great expanse of Southeast Asia until seven centuries ago.
