An elegant boutique hotel sets the tone for visitors seeking more sophisticated pursuits on the popular resort island
Just as some of Phuket's heavy-rock pubs forewarn patrons, "If the music's too loud, you're too old", busy Patong Beach could issue a similar caution: If there's a tad too much razzmatazz for your linking, perhaps you've lost some steam.
It appears that a good number of tourists fall into this category. A common complaint these days is that Patong is too developed, too commercialised, and has too many bars.
Of course, when directed at Phuket as a whole, criticism of this nature is largely unfair. Patong is merely one selection from the island's vast menu. And the solution is simple: if you prefer less frenetic surroundings, try one of the quieter beaches.
I did just that on a recent visit, stretching out with a beer and a good book on the peaceful sands at the foot of The Boathouse Inn on Kata Beach.
Arguably Phuket's most picturesque bay, Kata lies on the southwest coast, about midway between Ao Patong and the southernmost point at Laem Promthep. There's some mighty pretty scenery, so it's well worth renting a vehicle for a day or two to explore.
The coast road meanders around cliffs, through rubber plantations, orchards and lush jungle growth, with occasional clearings exposing dramatic sweeps of the sea, coves and beaches below.
The finest panorama, however, is from the viewpoint at the far south of Kata. Here the deep blue of the Andaman graduates through several hues into frothy-white waves rolling onto the beaches of Kata Noi and Yai, Karon, Karon Noi and Freedom Beach near the end of the headland that separates Karon from Patong.
But it is to Kata that the eye is continuously drawn: to the verdant landscape fringing the beach, to the symmetry of bay and to its centrepiece, the islet of Ko Pu.
With scenery of this calibre, together with more subdued nocturnal offerings, it's not surprising that Kata has clicked with families and others whose recreational pursuits are more cosmopolitan than Phuket generally offers.
The Boathouse Inn and Restaurant is a fine example of a luxury resort that not only reflects this ambience but is constantly contributing to and refining it.
Focusing on personalised service to a small-volume clientele (only 33 rooms and three suites), this boutique hotel on the southern end of Kata Beach extends such a cordial welcome to guests that - aside from having to settle your bill on departing - it's rather like staying a while with wealthy friends.
This analogy mirrors the hotel's prime objective and is clearly evident in the little touches: staff are warm and attentive, managers will join you for a drink and end up becoming pals, postcards are written and mailed for you, and you can even roll back over-refreshed to your room at 2 a.m. and find flowers on your pillow.
The big touches don't hurt either. Primarily a restaurant with a hotel attached, The Boathouse has long been acknowledged for some of Phuket's finest Thai and continental cuisine. Add to this what Wine Spectator magazine called "one of the most outstanding wine lists in the world", and it's little wonder what one travel writer dubbed The Boathouse "one of the great little hotels of the world".
My own knowledge of wine matters was exiguous to say the least prior to visiting The Boathouse cellars. Among the beau monde of outback Western Australia, where I honed my social graces, one never removes the bottle from its paper bag. As for drinking wine from a glass, this is both pretentious and unnecessary as it only leads to extra work at washing-up time.
Therefore, I found it extremely edifying when restaurant manager Richard Mehr and Phuket radio personality Mark Rome led me on an inspection of the 3,500 bottles contained in the hotel's unique above-ground cellar, complete with a crash course in discerning the subtleties of some of the 225 varieties.
Commencing with Bordeaux, my hosts waved glass after glass under my nose, urging me to detect bouquets of cherry, blackberry, toasted oak, mint, herb layered with minerals, or rich and elegant tobacco. (Tobacco may well be the reason my philistine nose failed to distinguish any significant differences; I had just finished a cheap Dutch cigar.)
By the time we reached the Sauternes, Richard beamed with pride as he displayed the Chateau Raymond Lafon 1987/91, exclusive to The Boathouse cellars, having been hand-carried there directly from the chateau by the owner, Jean Pierre Meslier.
Cultural activities for guests centre on culinary workshops conducted by award-winning chef Tummanoon Punchun, along with the Andaman chapter of the Chao Phraya River Club's regular wine-tasting evenings, performances of chamber music, art exhibitions and literary meetings.
Popular with guests and resident expats alike, the literary society hosts readings by aspiring local writers, as well as frequent appearances by professional guest authors. Among the prominent authors to entertain with excerpts from their work are William Warren, the late Tristan Jones, Christopher Moore, Pira Sudham, S.P. Somtow, William Page, James Eckardt, Colin Piprell and . . . myself, when I recently introduced my new collection of travel stories, Island-Hopping Through the Andaman.
As for the art gallery, major exhibiting artists have included Philip Slagter, Jan Montijn, Didier Bayle, Jean Pierre Guiriec, and Dutch artist Leo Musch. The latter regularly returns to conduct daily workshops in painting and drawing.
However, it is primarily the magnificent Andaman with its plethora of idyllic isles that draws one to Kata and Phuket's other beaches in the first place. The roster of day trips includes Coral Island, Raja Island, Ko Kai, Ko Yai and Phang-nga Bay. One can charter the Andaman Angler for deep-sea fishing, or explore sea-caves with the Sea Explorer canoe excursions. These and other one-day tours are available through The Boathouse reception, or you can make your own arrangements.
Tucked away on Kata's southern corner, the Kata Beach Dive Shop (284-022) specialises in local boat dives tailored for married tourists hesitant about abandoning their families for an entire day. Priced at 800 baht all-inclusive, these dives last for approximately two hours and can be taken at any of eight nearby sites, one of the most convenient being the coral reefs around Ko Pu.
There are also introductory courses for 1,500 baht, two-dive daytrips for 1,900 baht, plus advanced or rescue courses starting around 6,000 baht. For travellers on restricted budgets there's a special low-season package, with a full PADI open-water course, including five nights' bungalow accommodation, for 6,900 baht.
If, on the other hand, you've had your fill of sea and sand, you may prefer to explore some of the countryside on an elephant. The Kata Elephant Camp is next to the coast road just before the Viewpoint, and for 400 baht (children half-price) one of several Isan jumbos will take you for a trek along the dense and scenic jungle trails of the interior.
While most of the resorts lining the bay fit into the luxury category, those on a tight budget can find some very reasonable alternatives.
Pop Cottage has clean, comfortable rooms ranging from 400 baht with fans to 550 baht with air-conditioning. It's not seaside but it's only a three-minute-walk to the beach. Shady House and Restaurant, next to Kata Beach Dive Shop, has AC rooms for 500 baht, or fan rooms for 300. I thought Shady's bungalows were less appealing than Pop's; however, Shady is right on the beach with a seafood restaurant attached.
For sheer value, the Peace Hill Hotel at Kata Centre wins hands-down with its stylish rooms, complete with AC and TV, set in a garden with a swimming pool, for 450 baht.
Kata Centre has dozens of restaurants, pubs, bars and stores huddled in a pleasant village-like setting. Both the Blue Fin and the British-style Anchor Bar have earned kudos for excellent, reasonably priced meals.
The Good Earth bookstore has an admirable selection of second-hand books in several languages, along with homemade cakes, wine, beer, freshly brewed coffee, and imported teas (Nepalese, Burmese, Japanese, Sumatran). As a result the Good Earth has developed into a popular rendezvous, with all sorts of interesting characters dropping in to chat with the affable owner.
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