An otherwise unremarkable town in Surat Thani may have been the capital of the Srivijaya Empire, whose Javanese rulers controlled a great expanse of Southeast Asia until seven centuries ago.The splendor of the Srivijaya Empire can be seen at Chaiya's Wat Phra Mahathat.
By the end of the eighth century A.D., Srivijaya had extended its power into southern Thailand and up the Isthmus of Kra - an expansion necessitated by avoiding the treacherous and pirate-riddled Straits of Malacca, thus ensuring the safety of trade routes between India and China.
Steeped in mystery and legend since its decline toward the end of the 13th century, the exact location of the Srivijaya capital has been a subject of debate among historians.
Many believe it was situated near the town of Palembang in southern Sumatra. However, few antiquities were discovered at Palembang whereas a vast number have surfaced around Surat Thani in southern Thailand, most of which are now housed in the National Museums of Bangkok and Nakhon Si Thammarat.
These finds, in particular a stone inscription dated 775 A.D. which records the construction of Mahayana Buddhist monuments by the kings of Srivijaya, have led some scholars to surmise that the capital may well have been at Chaiya (this name is widely accepted as being a contraction of the Thai pronunciation for Srivijaya), a small town 54 kilometres north of Surat Thani town.
With several important historical sites scattered across the surrounding district, Chaiya was undoubtedly the former regional and cultural centre of this 12,800-square-kilometre province.
Unfortunately, the town today is otherwise unremarkable. Apart from a hotel and a guesthouse, both extremely utilitarian, it lacks facilities for tourists. As a result, visitors are recommended to tackle Chaiya as a day trip from Surat Thani. A traveller from Bangkok to Surat city could also break the journey at Chaiya and inspect its prime sites.
Tourists with private vehicles have an advantage and can easily cover all the major temples in a day, with perhaps a lunchtime trip to a beachside restaurant thrown in for good measure. Nevertheless, Chaiya offers the standard selection of local transport - buses, songthaews and motorcycle taxis - so others should experience no difficulties organising a temple-hopping tour. In the cloister surrounding the Borom That Chaiya chedi are 183 Srivijaya Buddha images.
Approximately two kilometres west of the town, on the main Chaiya road running off Highway 41, lies the area's most eminent attraction, Wat Phra Borom Mahathat Chaiya Rajaworaviharn, a rather lengthy title generally shortened to Wat Phra Mahathat. Constructed in 757 A.D., this royal temple is considered the finest, and most intact Srivijayan structure in Thailand.
Three adjacent entrances, surmounted by carved lintels, lead into a courtyard containing the temple's highlight, the elaborate 1,200-year-old, 24-metre-high Borom That Chaiya chedi.
Resembling some Javanese candi (a sepulchral Hindu monument common in Java), this grand pagoda was initially restored in 1901 during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and is believed to contain Buddha relics. It stands on a square base surrounded by a cloister enshrining 183 various sizes and styles (mostly seated, some standing) of Srivijaya Buddha images. Several are still undergoing restoration.
A museum attached to the temple exhibits artifacts and other archaeological finds from the district. Of particular interest are the aging monochrome photographs depicting the various stages leading up to the full restoration of both the temple and its magnificent chedi.
Admission is five baht for Thai citizens and 10 baht for foreigners - a common and clearly racist practice at most Thai museums and one that should be discontinued. (Can you imagine the uproar that would occur if it was discovered that an Australian museum was charging Asian tourists double the usual admission?)
Positioned throughout the vicinity surrounding Wat Phra Mahathat are four other, equally important if less impressive temples dating from the same period - Wat Wiang, Wat Lung, Wat Nop and Wat Kaew. The latter is especially noteworthy for its ruined Srivijaya stupa, which is similar to the Cham structures of the ninth century, but also shows a central Javanese influence.
A mural of Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, the founder of Chaiya's Wat Suanmoke. With so much emphasis on the past, it's interesting to note that Chaiya's best-known wat is far from ancient and has only been in existence for a little more than half a century. Founded in May 1932 by Phra Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, Wat Suan Mokkhapalaram (The Garden of Liberation), was originally situated at nearby Ban Phumriang, but relocated in 1959 to a 150-acre rural site at the foot of Khao Phutta Thong, six kilometres south of Chaiya, just off Highway 41.
Widely known by its contracted name, Wat Suanmoke, this forest wat is totally devoid of any of the elaborate edifices and formal ceremonies usually associated with Thai temples. Instead, the focus is on harmony with nature and a back-to-grassroots approach to Buddhism that closely follows the basic regimen of the earliest disciples.
Offering a combination of outdoor facilities and activities, physical labour, Vipassana (Insight) and Samatha (Tranquil) meditation, Wat Suanmoke draws monks, lay meditators, searchers for enlightenment, and the curious, from numerous countries. Ten-day meditation courses are held at the beginning of every month. A small fee of 900 baht covers dormitory accommodation (individual huts for women), two vegetarian meals a day plus instruction.
Casual visitors regularly drop by to experience the serenity of the grounds, as well as browsing around the sculpture workshops, library and various other buildings. A unique attraction is the spiritual theatre, which has been decorated over the years with a melange of Thai, Egyptian, Indian, Tibetan, Chinese, Japanese and European bas-reliefs and murals. This building was best described by Phra Buddhadasa Bhikkhu himself when he referred to it as "a pictorial interpretation of Dharma".
Six kilometres east of Chaiya is the village of Ban Phumriang, a handicraft centre renowned locally for its unique gold and silver brocade silk cloth, woven in five original patterns on roadside looms. There are also a handful of small workshops producing gold and silver jewellery. Yet another local craft is jute headwear, plaited from palm and palmyra leaves.
As Ban Phumriang is essentially a Muslim village, mosques predominate. However, there are a few old Buddhist temples worth inspecting. Prominent among these is What Samuhanimit, which has a crumbling stone pedestal - the sole remaining structure form the original viharn - plus some small chedi.
Travelling east form the village, a road crosses the Klong Yai Phumriang bridge onto Laem Po, then continues on up to Laem Sui at Ao Bandon. Laem Po has a few typical southern beach restaurants, with tables and deckchairs scattered around under trees and umbrellas. This is a pleasant and peaceful spot to relax with a snack and a few beers after a tough day around the temples.
Better still is the beach at Tha Chana, 27 kilometres to the north of Chaiya. Several restaurants, with seaside seating placed among the coconut trees, line a clean and scenic stretch of coastline facing the Gulf of Thailand.
Dotting the horizon are a handful of islets belonging to the Angthong group; a 40-island archipelago that became Surat Thani's first marine national park in 1980. Unfortunately, the beach lacks a resort, though if you care to stay a night or two, there is one budget hotel near the central market. However, the town has little to offer other than its beach, so most tourists elect to stay in Surat and include Tha Chana with a Chaiya visit.
Travel tips
The South's largest province, Surat Thani is situated approximately midway down the southern peninsula, 685 kilometres from Bangkok. To the east of the province lies the Gulf of Thailand with its well-known islands of Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and the Ang Thong group, all part of Surat Thani.
Inland, Surat borders five other provinces, and can be reached easily by taxi, bus or minibus from any of these surrounding provincial capitals: Chumphon and Rayong to the north, Phang-nga to the west, Krabi and Nakhon Si Thammarat to the south.
One of the South's major hubs, Surat Thani city is linked to Bangkok by air, rail, and road. Thai Airways International operates two flights a day from Bangkok to Surat Thani. Flight time is one hour and 15 minutes, and the one-way fare is 1,850 baht.
From Surat city there are frequent rail, bus, minibus, and taxi departures for Chaiya, 54 kilometres to the north.
Numerous trains, coaches and buses depart Bangkok daily for Surat Thani. All pass through Chaiya.
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